Sumatra (show map) is the westernmost major island of Indonesia. Here on the third largest island of the archipelago you find the very quintessence of the word ‘jungle’. Giant trees rising up to more than 60 meters, swinging lianas as thick as one’s leg, exotic flowers, monkeys and apes brachiating and running through the trees and many other beautiful animals hiding behind the thick foliage. Besides all this natural beauty, Sumatra also offers the visitor a unique cultural life still existing in all of its provinces. The Batak peoples of North-Sumatra and the matriarchal Minangkabau of West-Sumatra are a good example of this cultural diversity.

North Sumatra is the homeland of six different Batak tribes each of them with their own habitat, language and distinctive ethnicities. Only in the coastal areas and on the smaller island west of the province have other communities settled. As result of their suspicion of foreigners and the inaccessibility of their homeland the Karo-Batak who inhabit the northeastern regions of North-Sumatra and the Toba Batak who are concentrated around Lake Toba have still maintained much of their traditional customs. Although converted to Christianity in the beginning of the 20 th century their belief in ancestors and spirits is still very much part of their daily life. This is most obvious during their burial and marriage rites.

Another interesting ethnic group can be found on the island of Nias to the west of North Sumatra. Separated by the Mentawai Strait, these ono niha, or ‘children of the people’ as they call themselves developed their own very distinctive culture known for its megaliths and impressive architecture. Although no more new megaliths are erected nowadays, the island is scattered with remains of this stone culture. And also the traditional houses that differ in architecture in the south, central and northern part of Nias are still numerous. Besides this cultural inheritance the white beaches and great surf are also definitely a great attraction. The island of Nias can be reached from the coastal town of Sibolga, a trip of 8 to 10 hours.

Just half hour off shore of Sibolga is the small island of Poncan Gadang: white beaches, coconut trees and coral reefs in reasonable condition.

The hectic capital city of Medan is the starting point to discover the beauties of North-Sumatra. Relatively close to Medan is the orangutan rehabilitation center Bohorok, located on the edge of the national park Gunung Leuser. Here captive orangutans are reintroduced to their original environment, the dense tropical forests of Northern Sumatra. Besides a chance to see the daily feeding of those big red apes Bohorok offers the opportunity of exciting jungle walking. Deeper into the heart of the Leuser National Park is the village and site of Tangkahan, a beautiful and tranquil spot surrounded by tropical forest. Here you will find an elephant centre. These big grey beasts are used to survey the area for poachers and loggers. Tangkahan, managed by former loggers who are now keepers of the forest, offers great walking, tube rafting and elephant rides.

Brastagi on the Karo plateau is also situated on a relatively short distance to Medan. In these cool surroundings and on its fertile volcanic soils the Karo Batak grow all sorts of vegetables. Their interesting traditional houses, which are sadly deteriorating quickly, can be seen in some of the villages on the plateau. The still active volcanoes Sibayak and Sinabung that dominate the landscape are a challenge to climb. A five-hour dr ive from Medan will bring you to the town of Prapat on the shores of the largest lake of Sumatra, Lake Toba. Formed some 75.000 years ago as a result of an enormous eruption, the lake and the island of Samosir have been major tourist destinations since the Dutch colonial rule. The lake offers great swimming and on Samosir you can experience a relaxed atmosphere brightened by catching songs of the Toba Batak, see small villages with interesting architecture and go for great walks with splendid views. Samosir is definitely worth staying several days.

A province of equal beauty is North-Sumatra’s neighbor West-Sumatra. Many visitors are impressed by its green landscape with rolling hills, forested mountains and volcanoes in which rice terraces, lakes and valley’s take a prominent place. The heart of the province is formed by the Padang Highlands, part of the Bukit Barisan mountain range that forms the backbone of Sumatra. These highlands are the home of a hardworking and well-educated ethnic group, the Minangkabau, known for their matriarchal culture. From the rumah gadang, the traditional house of the Minangkabau, the oldest women of a clan, called Bundo Kanduang rules over her family with great wisdom.

Beyond dispute the best place from which to explore this province is Bukittinggi. Situated at an altitude of about 900 meters above sea level this charming cool town offers the visitor several attractions like a lively market, the remains of a Dutch fort, a small zoo, a museum and energetic dance performances. There are lots of local restaurants that serve the very spicy Padang food, consisting of many (meat) dishes cooked with a lot of hot chili and coconut milk. In the vicinity of Bukittinggi are the Ngarai Canyon and the Harau valley, both offer impressive nature and are very suitable for adventurous hiking. Harau Valley has some simple accommodation. Touring by chartered car is ideal to visit the colorful large rumah gadang, a Minang palace, historical remains, take a look at different home industries, like silverwork and songket weaving (a technique where a raised pattern of gold or silver threads are added using extra heddle rods to lift selected warp yarns) and of course enjoy the province’s incredible beautiful landscape.

Just to the west of Bukittinggi lies the spectacular Lake Maninjau, snuggled inside an ancient steep walled crater. The surrounding hills are covered with tropical forest and closer to the lake rice terraces are constructed. There is some attractive hiking possible with monkeys on the way and breathtaking views.

West from Padang, the capital city of West-Sumatra, lies a fascinating chain of islands called the Mentawai archipelago. There are four islands, but the island of Siberut is by far the most interesting one because of the authenticity of its nature and culture. Due to a deep gorge that separates the Mentawai islands from the mainland the fauna and flora have endured their own evolution, which has resulted in a high endemism. The indigenous people that inhabit the islands have developed their own customs and beliefs that differ remarkably from those found on the mainland. Their intriguing way of living and their belief in spirits are still very much preserved until now. There are hardly any roads on the island and traveling is done via rivers or by walking through sometimes knee-deep mud.

Just off-shore of Padang you can find several islands with accommodation. These islands fringed with a white sandy beach and coral gardens are a great place to relax, dive and snorkel.

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The most populated island of Indonesia Java conjures up different images for different people. For many it speaks of the frantic business of the capital city of Jakarta with its modern skyscrapers and crammed road system. For others Java speaks of the ancient civilizations of Central Java with its world-known monuments like the Buddhist temple Borobudur and the Hindu temple Prambanan, its centuries-old art of batik as well the as the intriguing court culture of Yogyakarta and Solo. Others recall Java as the island where for centuries colonial power ruled and left their traces. Java can have al these associations, but also that of so much rural scenery like the numerous rice terraces in shades of green and brownish yellow. Even tropical rainforests can be found on this densely populated island, although they are relatively difficult to access.

Not in the least Java is known for its string of active and non-active volcanoes, with the 2392 m high Bromo as the most climbed volcano of Indonesia. With such a wide range of tourist objects, Java deserves at least several weeks of exploring.

For centuries the harbor of Jakarta, Sunda Kelapa, was known as an important trade center on the route of foreign spice traders. Around this old harbor a city of contrasts has developed. Old and new, tradition and progress, poverty and extreme wealth, skyscrapers and slums all exist next to each other. Jakarta is the most visited tourist destination in the Indonesian archipelago, due to its key role in the national aviation-and shipping network. However most tourists are not very charmed by this overcrowded city, they leave Jakarta as soon as they have visited some of its many historical and cultural highlights. It actually takes time and patience to really get to know and appreciate this energetic city.

Bogor is just a few hours away from Jakarta. Once a fresh and cool holiday resort for the colonials from Jakarta, Bogor is now a fast growing city where pollution is a common phenomenon. However Bogor has maintained an important part of its green and fresh image in the form of the 100 ha large Kebon Raya, or botanical gardens. First laid out in 1817 these wonderful gardens house more than 15.000 exotic plant species and are a delight to explore by foot.

East of Bogor and west of Bandung a chain of volcanoes stretches until the town of Ciamas and encloses the Bandung plateau and the smaller Garut-plateau. This compact highland where mountaintops reach until the clouds is called the Parahyangan, or ‘ the domain of the gods’ and it was this very fertile area that was to become the center of the thriving colonial tea culture in the 19 th and 20 th century. In 1957 all the Dutch and English companies were nationalized and amalgamated to form large state companies. Until this day the endless extensive tea plantations with its broad hat wearing pickers guarantee amazing scenery. Malabar is one of those tea plantations, once founded and managed by K.A.R. Bosscha. His old planters house is know used as a guesthouse.

The third largest city of Indonesia, Bandung, is the center of the Sudanese people who inhabit the largest part of West-Java. They are known for their light skin, preference for fried fish and raw salads, and rather strict Islamic beliefs. The Sudanese are also known for their three-dimensional wooden wayang golek puppet, the angklung instrument made from bamboo pipes and Sudanese songs and dances accompanied by a kecapi (citer) and a suling (bamboo flute).

Bandung still shows a part of its rich colonial past: big private houses and impressive buildings for in those days progressive architectural styles reflected the glamour and wealth once known to this city.

A 2 hour drive from Bandung takes you to the fertile area of Cipanas. Situated at the slopes of the Gunter mountain, this town offers great scenery, hot springs and gorgeous rice terraces. The oldest Hindu temple, Candi Cangkuang, found in West-Java is located nearby. Cipanas is also the best place from where you can explore the active Papandayan volcano.

In search of a cool sea breeze and some nice sandy beaches you can try the peninsular on the west coast called Pangandaran. This fisher town is popular amongst foreign and local tourists. The sandy beach is wide but the sea can be rather unpredictable; it is believed to be the domain of the worshipped and feared Queen of the South-Sea, Ratu Kidul. Until this day many offerings are brought to her by the local fishermen in return for a safe journey and a big catch.

On the tip of the peninsular there is a national park that is definitely worthwhile visiting. Several animal species are relatively easy to observe here.

Traveling east from Pangandaran an attractive way to reach Central-Java is to take a boat and follow the west coast to the rather unappealing industry city of Cilicap. You pass by mangroves and the prison island of Nusa Kembangan.

Surrounded by rice terraces, impressive mountains and many tobacco fields the town of Wonosobo is worth a visit. Its market is a lively place to find all kinds of tobacco, fruits, vegetables and other interesting local products and its horse carts are an attractive way to move around within town. But above all Wonosobo is on many travel routes because it’s the starting point to visit a mysterious plateau called Dieng. This misty plateau situated on an altitude of more than 2000 meter once formed the ultimate place from where Hindu gods were worshipped. Between the 7 th and 9 th century about 200 temples were built here, still eight, fairly intact temples remain for the visitor to see. Besides this historical interest the Dieng-plateau offers a remarkable colored volcanic lake, fumaroles, interesting people and great opportunities for easy walking

From Wonosobo, Yogyakarta is at a relative short distance. Before entering this old well-known court-city you have to pass one of world’s eight wonders: the Buddhist temple of Borobudur. This magnificent piece of art and craftsmanship, built in the 8 th and 9 th century is nowadays set in an extensive park. Visited daily by many people, the peaceful cool mornings and late afternoons give you the best opportunity to enjoy the many facets of the temple.

Yogyakarta (map) is a lively and attractive city ruled by sultan Hamengkubuwono who maintains a still very dominant court culture including all its mythical expressions. The city offers a wide range of interesting sights and deserves therefore at least several days of exploring. Some sites include: the court, the vivid markets, museums, dance performances and certainly not in the least the handicraft factories like leather, the wayang kulit (flat leather puppets), silver and batik (a technique of decorating fabric with applying wax to protect parts of the fabric from dyes, the wax is later removed).

A short distance from the city the Merapi volcano presents a challenge for many. Parangtritis to the south is known for its wide black sandy beach but above all as an important ceremonial place for the court and its inhabitants.

From Yogyakarta you can travel in eastern direction or in northern direction towards the busy harbour city of Semarang. On the way to Semarang you will pass two interesting sights: the railway station of Ambarawa, where you find a museum with old locomotives and have the opportunity to travel in old European made wagons pulled by a steam locomotive. Not far from Ambarawa is the site of Gedung Songo, several small Hindu temples scattered in an amazing landscape. When clear weather you can see several of Java’s volcanoes.

The next major city in an eastern direction is Surakarta or perhaps better known as Solo, Java’s other court city. Although Solo also has a rich history and still maintains its court function the city is nowadays less Javanese then Yogyakarta. Where the court of Yogyakarta still has political power, the sultan of Solo only rules within the concrete walls of the court. The main industry is batik, but while traditional batik is still produced the majority of batik is factory made.
From Solo many choose to travel straight to East-Java via the main road. However an interesting alternative is the scenic road to Tawangmangu, a small town settled against the slopes of the mystical Luwu Mountain. Great walks, amazing views, waterfalls and one of Java’s most erotic temples, Candi Sukuh, make it a worthwhile detour.

From Tawangmangu, the border between Central and East-Java is just a short distance. This second most populated province is by far most known to travelers for its volcanoes and natural beauty. However, it is also rich in historical remains, most of which can be found in the fertile Brantas valley. Malang, the largest town in this valley is a good starting point for visits of some of the temples. Situated at an altitude of 450 meter Malang was once a popular city amongst colonial Europeans who cultivated extensive coffee, cacao, rubber, tea, and sugarcane plantations in its fertile surroundings. The city still retains some of its colonial past which together with its strategic location to other tourist destinations make the city worth while visiting. Malang is also frequently used as a starting point to visit the world famous Bromo volcano.

Bromo is one of the most active of three volcanoes that rise from an immense sea of sand enclosed by the old Tengger-crater rim. This unique 8 x 11 km sea of sand is the bottom of the ancient Tengger volcano and was declared a national reserve as early as 1919. It is a once in a lifetime experience to watch the sun rise from either the old crater rim or from the rim of the smoking Bromo volcano. The area is also the homeland of the Tengger people, who continue to practice an old form of Hinduism. As a means of living, the Tengger grow several kinds of vegetables and other agriculture products in patches against the fertile slopes, which make the region look like a patchwork quilt. The Bromo-Tengger National Park is nowadays relatively easy to reach via a steep and winding road and several hotels near and even on the old crater rim, allow visitors to spend the night as close as possible to the Bromo volcano.

Leaving the Tengger area behind many travelers continue their way straight to the island of Bali, however hereby leaving some major high lights of East-Java unvisited. Among them are the Ijen caldera, part of the Ijen-Merapi-Maelang nature reserve, to the east and the national park Meru Betiri in a southeast direction. The small town of Kalibaru is an attractive base to visit both parks. Amidst coffee, rubber and cacao plantations this cool town offers some affordable and attractive accommodation from where trips to both parks mentioned above can be organized. The Ijen area was once the scene of enormous volcanic activities, which left a huge caldera where six new volcanoes arose. Part has been filled with water, which due to its high sulfur content is a beautiful turquoise colored. On the banks of this largest crater lake found in Indonesia are numerous fumaroles. Here some nine to twelve tonnes of sulfur is being extracted each day. These pieces of sulfur are carried by porters to a plant at a distance of almost 20 km down the slopes!

The National Park Meru Betiri is of equal beauty and consists of thousands of undisturbed low- and highland tropical forests, which with relative ease reveal an interesting avifauna and primate species. Surrounded by and even within its borders are extensive plantations of cacao, coffee and rubber. In the south the unpredictable south sea borders the park and its beaches are used by turtles to lay their eggs. Accompanied by park rangers it is possible to visit one of those beaches near the small plantation village of Sukamade and wait patiently at night until an enormous female turtle emerges from the sea and begins her arduous climb to the top of the beach to lay her eggs.

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The island of gods, as Bali is often referred too, takes its own unique place in the Indonesian archipelago. Whereas the other islands are Islamic or Christian, on Bali Hinduism is practiced in a remarkable creative and colorful way. In many temples that display an astonishing architecture, the Hindu gods are worshipped by through prayer and offerings. The numerous skilfully made offerings, carried by the women on their head to the temples, are often pieces of arts themselves. They are made with full dedication and sometimes days go by before one is finished. After being presented to a deity the offering looses it’s meaning and will be taken home where the edible parts are consumed. Scattered throughout Bali you will almost trip over the numerous small palm leaf offerings that are placed daily on every possible dwelling of a deity or demon such as on street corners, on bridges, in big trees, in front of doors, on tables, etc, etc.

The ability and willingness to create the most beautiful things for their gods is used by the Balinese to produce most attractive souvenirs made from all possible kinds of material. This makes Bali a heaven for those in search for souvenirs.

Bali is also known for its scenic landscapes. Still many Balinese work their rice fields in the way it was done for centuries. The small fantastic shaped sawa terraces are skilfully worked and their efficient and democratic Subak system [a society consisting of several farmers who decide on ways of irrigation, buying seeds, planting the seedlings etc.] results in high yields. This photogenic sawa landscape is however just one aspect of Bali’s natural beauty, some impressive volcanoes, clear crater lakes and tropical forests patiently wait to be climbed and to be admired.

However, most visitors come to Bali to settle down for a relaxed sun-drenched holiday on one of Bali’s beautiful beaches or ride on its famous surfs. This leaves the interior of Bali relatively less visited and it is here that you can find traditional Bali in every respect of its meaning.

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Kalimantan(show map), the second largest island of Indonesia is rightfully called the island of many rivers as some of Indonesia longest rivers rise in its mountains. The vast lowland plains merge in the interior into a mountainous area with peaks that reach not more than 2200 meter. For the Dayak, the indigenous peoples of the interior and the Malay as the dominant coastal peoples live revolves around these rivers and therefore they have developed several types of river transportation, from bamboo rafts to two level high riverboats. Sadly, the rivers also allow an easy flow of logged tropical forest, where timber logs are tied together to form huge rafts that float downstream or are pulled by special boats to one of Kalimantan' s major seaports. The tropical forest still found on Kalimantan is the most diverse in the archipelago and shows a high percentage of endemism. Here one can experience the word jungle in every respect of its meaning.

The Dayak form a heterogeneous population with many cultural differences between the several tribes. There are however also several similarities like the use of long stretched communal houses, worshipping of ancestors and spirits, (body) art which dominantly shows images of animals and a way of living using a method of slash and burn to grow agriculture products.

For traveling in Kalimantan one should be prepared to use any kind of river transportation to reach remote Dayak villages, the further away the more traditional they will be. There is adventurous trekking in its tropical rainforests.

Banjarmasin , the capital of South-Kalimantan, is the main port of entry in the southern part of Kalimantan. Besides being a good base from which to explore its surroundings, the city itself is definitely worth a visit. Beyond dispute one of its most interesting sights are the floating markets or pasar terapung that are held at several different locations. Here women sell their products in small canoes wearing big round palm leaf hats to protect them from the sun. For those buyers that become hungry or thirsty others sell cakes and drinks handed out with the use of a long stick. The islands Kaget and Kembang, a short distance by speedboat from Banjarmasin were inhabited by several groups of nose monkeys or bekantan, monkeys with red, pickle-like noses (only males) who are endemic to Kalimantan but nowadays all of them are replaced to Java leaving the islands to be inhabited by a more common species of monkey, the long tailed macaque.

The small town Martapura at a short distance from Banjarmasin is the center of the diamond trade. In its surroundings several mines can be found where people dig for the gems still using traditional methods.

This province is the homeland of Kenyah and Kayan Dayak, from whom tattoos and elongated earlobes characterize their appearance. This body decoration is nowadays only found on the older generation and even among them many have cut their earlobes out of shame. East-Kalimantan is also the province of the great Mahakam River, one of Kalimantan’ s largest rivers. Following this river and its tributaries like the Telen River, (show map) you will be taken to typical Dayak villages were a small number of their inhabitants still occupy the well-known traditional longhouses. Dense jungle is still found here, however it will demand quite some effort to reach areas with extensive undisturbed tropical rainforests; the easy accessible areas near the rivers are logged by local people to make place for agriculture fields or by big companies for timber use.

The city of Samarinda at the estuary of the Mahakam and the small town of Tenggarong (the former seat of a once influential kingdom) further upstream, are both suitable as a starting point for trips into the interior of East-Kalimantan. To the north lies the town of Balikpapan, mainly known as a center of oil mining. This town plays a central role in transportation within and outside of East-Kalimantan, however the town itself does not offer a visitor a great deal of interesting sightseeing.

Not far from Balikpapan you can visit a special project of the Gibbon Foundation and BOS Foundation (Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation), just recently accessible for visitors. Here in the recently replanted forest of Samboja Lestari, covering an area of around 2000 hectare, you find a rehabilitation centre for sun bears and orangutans. During walks through the fast growing vegetation and forest you can encounter several kinds of other wild primates, reptiles, small mammals and birds as well. It is possible that to join the staff working on the different projects available here.

Foreign travelers, not in the least due to its poor infrastructure, visit this province not very often. The rehabilitation center for the large red haired orangutans, established in Tanjung Puting National Park (show map) enjoys international fame. Together with Bohorok, in North-Sumatra and Samboja in East-Kalimantan, this is the one of the few places in Indonesia where the apes are placed back in their natural habitat. Access to this park is only possible by chartered boat and while traveling up river your chances are considerable to encounter long nose monkeys, the red colored langur and perhaps some crocodiles. Within the boundaries of the park there is limited but good accommodation available, but best is to spend your nights on the boat and enjoy all the amazing sounds of a river forest during the night and early morning.

The inland Dayak people still adhere to their traditional beliefs known as kaharingan, an accepted religion that allows for great impressive funeral ceremonies.

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This orchid shaped island is the centre of the Wallacea, where Asian fauna meets Australian fauna resulting in a high percentage of endemism. Black macaques and cuscus, tree-dwelling marsupials, inhabit extensive areas of beautiful forests and other interesting habitats. Because of its particular shape its coastline is around 6100 kilometers long and often interrupted by fine white sandy beaches. Beautiful coral gardens await to be discovered near these beaches and in the heart of the island live several intriguing peoples with their own fascinating culture and architecture. In Sulawesi a visitor will find a range of most attractive and diverse destinations, all within a relatively short distance of each other. Within a period of three to four weeks it is easy enough to include trekking through tropical rainforest, visits to ancient cultures, relaxing at white beaches and diving or snorkelling at many famous spots. (show map)

Most travelers start their visit to Sulawesi in the capital city of Makassar in the south. This gateway to the eastern islands has played an important role in history. For centuries Makassar has been a major harbor from where trade between the western and eastern Indonesian islands was conducted. In the 16 th century the Dutch succeeded in conquering the city and managed to maintain control over it for a long time. The few remains of this historical past are now the main sights of this city. The Spermonde Archipelago at a close distance to Makassar offers another reason for visiting this city. The small, beach fringed islands present good opportunities for diving and snorkeling.

Only around 30 kilometres in northern direction of Makassar you will find the southern boundary one of Indonesia most unique national park. Bantimurung-Bulusaraung National Park (declared a national park in October 2004) covers an area of almost 45.000 ha and comprises of several forest area’s with different ecosystems. The limestone cliffs that dominate the park are of an unique and astonishing beauty, consisting of dramatically formed vertical tower karst. Within the cliffs at least 237 caves are hidden, of which many show distinctively formed stalactites and stalagmites. Some of the caves show evidence of human inhabitants and piles of shells can be found here (used for food before) as well as primitive drawings. Believed is that the caves were inhabited between 30.000 to 5.000 years before Christ by a hunter-gatherer tribe using tools for preparing animal meat and plants. The appearance of the vegetation around the hills of Bantimurung was described by Alfred Wallace, an English naturalist who visited and researched the area in the mid-1800s and who was astonished by the beauty of the area.

Different from other limestone cliffs is the amount of butterfly species that can be found within its boundaries: at least 147 species are identified by now, amongst them 4 species that are protected by law. One of the more spectacular butterflies known largely from Sulawesi limestone, presumably because its food plant is restricted to a limestone habitat, is the large swallowtail Graphium androcles. Several species of mammals inhabited the national park. Three of them are endemic to Sulawesi: black monkey (Kera hitam, Macaca maura), the marsupial Cuscus Sulawesi (Kuskus Sulawesi, Phalanger celebensis) and musang Sulawesi (Musang Sulawesi, Macrogolidia mussenbraecki).

Also not far from Makassar in northeastern direction against the slopes of the Bawakaraeng mountain you will find the small town of Malino. Historical known as the site where several peace negotiations took place, Malino is nowadays often visited by local tourist in the weekends. They travel the 75 km long road in search for fresh and clean air. The hills, mountains, waterfalls, small villages and rice fields are a guarantee for some wonderful walking with greats views. You will even find one of the few tea plantations in Sulawesi here. This beautiful located plantation is Japanese managed.

Leaving Makassar behind and heading southeast (or traveling via secondary roads from Malino), at the most southeastern point there is the white almost flourlike sandy beach of Bira. Bira is situated in an area inhabited by the Bugis, a seafaring people known for centuries for their great boat building skills. These wooden sailing boats, some of them called pinisi, are still being built and used for trade between islands, although they are nowadays equipped with engines. Some pinisi are suitable for tourist purposes and they can take you anywhere in the Indonesian archipelago. From Bira you can also take the daily ferry and head for Selayar Island for more spectacular diving and snorkeling.

Following the road further north you will pass the small town of Tanah Towa, where the Kajang people still follow a very traditional life using only that provide by nature. Dressed in their woven and black dyed clothes they work their lands and worship their spirits.

The Bugis town of Sengkang is the next stop north. In the capital of the once influential Wajo district many houses are still built on stilts and roofs decorated with fine open worked gable-finials. The main attractions are the home silk industry and the Tempe Lake. In some villages caterpillar eggs are left to hatch and the animals are fed with special leaves until they make a cocoon, which is then processed into thin silk threads. In other villages these threads are dyed and woven into colorful sarongs and clothes. Tempe Lake is actually a rather small lake but one that extends enormously once the rainy season has started and the surrounding lands are flooded. On this productive lake a lot of fish are caught by fishermen, as well as by the many species of birds that find a ‘heaven on earth’ here. To make their work easier some of the fishermen live in floating houses that are moved depending on their work area.

Continuing in northern direction the lowland will gradually make place for a mountainous region known as Tanah Toraja, the homeland of the Torajan people. This extensive area is one of the most beautiful regions in all of Indonesia and is worth a visit of at least several days. The high located villages with their traditional wooden and carved houses covered by boat shaped roofs, known as tongkanan, are set within a scenery of green and yellow rice terraces surrounded by high mountains. The well-known funeral ceremonies that are executed with great grandeur are a very important aspect of the well-kept original culture of the Torajan. It is a delight to walk through rice fields and pass small villages shielded from wind and sight by bamboo trees. This area however also offers more adventurous mountain trekking and white water rafting or more easy going tours by comfortable car along the many points of interest like different traditional grave types and impressive tongkanan.

Leaving Toraja behind you enter the central and sparsely populated province of Sulawesi. The small town of Pendolo situated on the southern banks of the beautiful, crystal, clear Lake Poso is the first stop. From here it is recommended to hire a boat and cross the lake to Tentena, which is located on the northern shores of the lake. Try the local specialty, sugili, a large eel that is caught when it leaves the lake via the Poso River to the sea where it reproduces. Near Tentena you find the recently discovered Saluopa waterfall with inviting pools for bathing and along the road to Poso you can admire the deafening rapids of Sulewana.

From Tentena there are several directions to take that will lead you to different areas of interest. To the east you can travel within one or two days to Kolonedale and the nearby Morowali-park. This beautiful park with at least five different ecosystems is home to the indigenous Wana who still hunt for small prey with blowpipes. It is possible to do some trekking in this park and spend the night at small Wana settlements.

Continuing in a northerly direction, a mountainous road that branches off to the east, just before you reach the city of Poso and then follows the coastline, will take you to the town of Ampana. From this small harbor town boats bring you to a wonderful archipelago, the Togian islands. Only recently discovered by visitors, the Togian islands offer white sandy beaches, mangrove forests, lush green tropical jungle with interesting wildlife and superb diving and snorkeling. The Togian islands are home to several communities like the Bajau. Formerly a nomadic sea people, nowadays they are settled in permanent coastal villages but for their way of living they still very much depend on what the sea offers them. They will undertake journeys lasting for months to find pearls, coral, turtles, sea cucumber and sharks even as far as the waters of Australia.

A third direction will take you from Tentena to the Bada valley. This valley is one of several valleys situated within or near the borders of the Lore Lindu National Park, a vast protected area at relative high altitude where a large number of animal and plant species endemic to Sulawesi can be found. Only a few areas are sparsely inhabited, one of them is the Bada valley just outside the park. The Bada valley is known for the mysterious statues found scattered around of which no one knows who carved them and for what reason. A 70 km long mostly unpaved road connects Tentena with the major village of the Bada valley, Gintu. After Gintu there are no roads just footpaths used to transport agriculture products by horse. It will take an exciting three days hike to reach the western borders of the park from where a paved road can take you to Palu, the capital city of Central-Sulawesi. From Palu the beach and coral of Tanjung Karang are just an hour away. A great place to relax in the small cottages built near the beach.

The most frequently visited part of northern Sulawesi is the mountainous Minahasa region, homeland of a well-educated and proud people who speak languages related to the ones found in the Philippines. The fertile volcanic soil allows for intensive cultivation of a wide range of agriculture products, however in many highland and coastal areas it is the clove tree and the coconut tree that respectively dominate the landscape. Some areas however are still covered by tropical rainforest like the Tangkoko-Batu Angus Park in the northern point of Minahasa. This park guarantees lush tropical vegetation and an abundant animal life due to the high percentage of fruit bearing trees. Hornbills, black monkeys and probably the most endearing member of primates in Indonesia, the tiny and goggle-eyed tarsier, are relatively easy to spot.

An alternative way to experience some of Minahasa natural life is to join an exciting rafting adventure on the Minanga- or Tondano River in the heart of the region. Second, third and fourth-class rapids will bring you through a thrilling green landscape.

Being a part of the inner-volcano ring that also covers Sumatra, Java and Bali many active volcanoes rise high up in the sky. These ‘fire spitting mountains’ or ‘gunung merapi’ as the locals call them form another challenging attraction for visitors to northern Sulawesi. Some of them however, are relatively easy to climb even for those with no experience. The Mahawu volcano near the town of Tomohon with a crater lake and spectacular views is an example of such an ‘easy going’ mountain.

Despite interesting forest life, challenging volcanoes and also some scenic lakes the main natural attraction of Minahasa is beyond dispute its world famous coral reefs fringing the islands of Bunaken Sea Park. The astonishing reef walls are rich in plant- and animal life and several dive schools and plenty of accommodation and restaurants offer a visitor all the facilities one needs for a stay here. Nowadays not only Bunaken offers dive- and snorkel sites as well as accommodation but also from several other islands and locations is it now possible to discover the richness of the sea while enjoying comfortable accommodation. Good examples are the Pulisan cape with its forests, white sand beach and good corals; Lembeh island near to Lembeh street great for mock diving; the white sandy beach islands of the Bangka region.

In cultural respect Minahasa also offers some interesting excursions. Old carved Minahasa sarcophagi were collected and set together near a Christian graveyard in the town of Sarangan. The carvings reveal fascinating historical and religious information of live before and during the rule of colonial Dutch.

See how inhabitants of Woloan built impressive wooden houses which are then broken down piece by piece and rebuilt wherever the buyer wants it to be put down. Or take a look at the way coconut oil is produced using traditional methods.

All the above mentioned points of interest can be easily visited using the capital city of Manado as a base or for those looking for a more cooler and quieter spot you can try Tomohon , a small town nestled between the Mahawu and Lokon volcanoes at an altitude of 700 meters above sea level, about 25 km south of Manado.

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Nusa Tenggara (show map) is made up of the string of volcanic islands east of Bali: Lombok, Sumbawa, Komodo, Flores, Timor, Sumba, Sawu and Roti. Most of the islands are thinly populated and compared to their western neighbors relatively dry and agriculture is less productive. However arid though the vegetation may seem however, the islands have a sparse beauty of their own. The diverse culture is one that is still very authentic and related to this is the presents of relatively many traditional houses and structures as well as the still very common ikat weaving customs. The ikat technique consists of a process of decoration by which the thread is partly dyed before it is woven into cloth. The parts to remain undyed are ‘reserved’ by binding them with material which is impermeable to the dye. The eventual design of the fabric thus will be tied into either systems of threads, warp or weft, or into both.

Being near to Bali and therefore easily accessible, Lombok has received a relatively large amount of foreigners compared to the other islands of the Lesser Sundas. Most of them stay at the west coast near the village of Senggigi. Here a string of luxurious hotels is built along a white sandy beach offering all the comfort one needs. Travelers looking for more traditional Lombok just have to leave this coastline behind to find small typical Sasak villages [the Sasak are the original inhabitants of Lombok] throughout the rest of Lombok.

Tetebatu , a village nestled against the southern slopes of the dominating 3,726 m high Rinjani volcano, is an excellent place to explore some of Lombok' s natural beauty and originality. Scenic walks can be made through rice terraces and tobacco fields with the Rinjani as background décor or hiking through rainforest to some well-hidden waterfalls. Several villages specialized in handicraft, including weaving and earthenware pottery can be found in its surroundings.

North and northwest of the Rinjani is perhaps Lombok’ s most traditional area where still many religious customs can be experienced. Here you find two villages, Sembalun and Senaru who are the perfect base to explore the surroundings or climb the Rinjani mountain. The climb up to the top of the volcano and to its lake takes around 3 to 4 days. However easier walks are also possible and will take you via a gorgeous landscape through small Sasak villages. The South of Lombok is a relatively dry area and offers beaches as well as some traditional Sasak architecture. West of Lombok near the harbour to Sumbawa offers some nice white sandy beach islands with very good coral reefs, accommodation is very limited here but you can explore the islands from several other villages or towns nearby.

Relaxing is perfect on one of the beach fringed Gili’s or small islands found at the west side of Lombok. Snorkeling and diving is also possible here.

Sumbawa is remarkably drier than its neighbors Lombok and Flores and the island is agriculturally less productive. However by the use of irrigation systems and dams it is possible to grow rice, garlic and onions in the lower plains. Other means of income are the production of sea salt, fishing and cattle rising. Quite distinctive from its eastern neighbors is the religion of its inhabitants which is Islamic, whereas on Flores, Sumba & Timor missionaries where able to convert the majority of the population to Christianity.

Sumbawa Besar is the main city in the western part. Here are some pleasant beaches and great snorkeling opportunities. The island of Moyo to the north east of Sumbawa Besar was declared a national reserve and offers the visitors an open deciduous forest and a magnificent sea garden. In the surrounding of Sumbawa Besar several traditional villages can be found with wooden houses on stilts. In the sawas adjoining the villages famous buffalo races are held on special occasions.

Crossing the island in a west-east direction via a mountainous interior and through fishing villages near the coastline one finally ends up in Bima. The district of Bima once was an influential sultanate with its power reaching as far as the islands of Flores, Sumba and Timor. The palace of the sultans is still in good condition and interesting for a visit. The peoples of the surrounding mountains still live their lives according to local traditions. Their A-shaped traditional houses are remarkable and are still partly inhabited. There are some nice hiking possibilities in this area guaranteeing beautiful views. The coastal peoples strictly follow the rules of the Islamic faith; women cover their heads with colorful Muslim headscarves, which are locally called rimpu.

Following the main road further eastwards you will pass a scenic landscape with onion and garlic fields that are irrigated by hand using twin buckets, which are carried slung over the shoulder on a pole. Last town to stop is Sape from where boats leave for Komodo and Flores.

Between Sumbawa and Flores lies the national park of Komodo, consisting of tens of small islands fringed by beautiful reefs. It is within the borders of this park that the world-known Komodo dragon has found its habitat. On the dry and sparsely grown islands this bloodthirsty reptile finds its prey like rats, deers and pigs. The two largest islands are Komodo and Rinca and both islands provide facilities for visitors. Accompanied by trained rangers one can make several walks in search of the Komodo dragon. The open and dry forests found on these island also easily reveal other wildlife like deers, pigs, horses and monkeys as well as an interesting avifauna with squawking kakatuas and parrots.

Amazing dive- and snorkel spots are numerous throughout the national park.

Revering to natural beauty, the island of Flores is without any doubt the most beautiful island of the Lesser Sundas. Many parts of the island are still covered with tropical green forests and not less than fourteen impressive and mostly active volcanoes dominate the interior.

Ikat weaving is still very commonly practiced inland, while in the coastal areas other techniques are used. Motifs and the use of (natural) dyes, differ widely between villages.

For most travelers coming from Sumbawa and Komodo, Labuhan Bajo in the west is the first town to visit on Flores. This small Islamic fishing town offers some interesting sightseeing in its surroundings and is the place from which to explore the islands of Komodo National Park.

Following the main road to the east Ruteng is the next village on route. This town situated at an altitude of around 1400 meter is the center of the Manggarai people who are among other things known for the spectacular caci ritual. This whip fight where the attacker uses a stout bullwhip and the defender holds a shield and a bamboo baton, used to be an essential proof of manhood in days of warfare, but nowadays it is a ritual only carried out at (wedding) ceremonies. Traditionally the Manggarai lay out their rice fields in a spider web form, with each part belonging to a member of the same clan. Nowadays this remarkable shape is less common, although still found occasionally. The communal houses of the Manggarai are a rarity nowadays. In the village of Todo one can still see one of those houses although it was newly constructed several years ago. Hidden within the Manggarai area however there are still some villages the original traditional Manggarai houses. The area around Ruteng is a very fertile area and much rice is cultivated here; the spectacular rice terraces guarantee amazing scenery. Some of the rice fields are planted in a spider web form.

From Ruteng eastwards lies the town of Bajawa on an altitude of 1200 meter. Bajawa is the center of the Ngada people. Having lived isolated for centuries they have maintained a great deal of their conventional habits as well as a remarkable architecture. Walking through this mountainous area dominated by the Inerie volcano and visiting the small friendly traditional villages is a wonderful experience.

Leaving the main road behind and turning to the north coast you will reach the small town of Riung within several hours. Here the National Park Kepuluan Tujuhbelas, or the ‘ Seventeen Islands National Park’ is situated. This park protects reefs, mangrove forests and monitor lizards that are related to the Komodo dragon. Next destination is the 1600-meter high Kelimutu volcano in the interior, frequently visited because of its three crater lakes that change colors every now and then. Most visitors stay in the nearby villages Moni or Detusoko. Besides this volcano this fertile area is also worth a visit for its culture. There is a lot of ikat weaving done here and its traditional houses characterized by a high peaked palm thatched roofs are still found.

Maumere at the north coast is for many the last town to visit before they leave the island to their next destinations. Also Maumere offers some interesting cultural and architectural sightseeing in its surroundings. The reefs are definitely worth some exploring, although a part was destroyed in 1993 when a tidal wave caused by an earthquake hit the coastal line and destroyed villages and reefs.

Known for its astonishing culture of megaliths, its marapu (spiritual forces) religion and world famous ikats, visiting Sumba is one great adventure. The island is divided in two area’s: Western Sumba with Waikabubak as capital and Eastern Sumba with Waingapu as capital town. The western part is known for its beautiful white sandy beaches as well as for its traditional villages and houses with their huge thatched roofs. The architecture of the houses is closely related with the marapu religion, still very much practised here. Spiritual forces, including gods, spirits and ancestors are worshipped and asked for help if needed. In the loft of the house, seen as the dwelling place for the spiritual forces, offerings are placed. Eastern Sumba dispels less traditional houses but is known for its megalithic stones (erected during huge funeral ceremonies) and its ikat weaving. Months or even year can pass before a cloth is finished. Traditional patrons are used and with natural dyes the clothes are being colored.

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West-Papua (previously knows as Irian Jaya), Indonesia easternmost province differs is in all aspects of the other main islands of Indonesia. Belonging to the island of New Guinea (world’s second-largest island) it dispels both nature and culture influenced by the proximity of Australia. West Papua is blessed by an exceptional nature consisting of impenetrable rainforests, extensive swamp areas, endless mangrove-forest, lakes and dry savanna. The Pegunungan Maoke mountain range stretching from west to southeast is the backbone of the area, and the province’s highest peak, Puncak Jaya (4884 m), and other mountains such as Puncak Mandala, feature permanent snowfields and small glaciers. West-Papua is sparsely inhabited and most of its people live in bigger towns near the coast. Some of its traditional tribes survive harsh conditions and modern intrusions and live in its heartlands. The Baliem-valley, ‘discovered’ not even a century ago is one of the main tourist destinations. It is a once in a life time experience to travel in this valley of amazing natural beauty and meet some of the most remarkable tribes on earth. Jayapura is the capital of West-Papua and although not a really attractive town, the nearby Lake Sentani with its irregular shore lines, small islands and villages is worth while exploring.

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